Happy New Year everybody! This includes Johannes from Germany, whom I met today when he was going the opposite direction, heading up north from Argentina.
December 31, 2009
Golfito
Instructions for viewing the video clip below: 1) Consult a physician to assure your heart is healthy enough for the activities described in the following. 2) Connect your computer to a powerful audio system. 3) Set our room thermostat to at least 35 degrees Celsius. Wait. 4) Hang wet towels on a towel rack or hangers. The more the better. Wait until the windows are clouded. 5) Work out vigorously on a stationary bike for at least 30 minutes. 6) Watch this video and - more importantly - listen to the wild mammals' New Year's celebration. Enjoy!
Happy New Year everybody! This includes Johannes from Germany, whom I met today when he was going the opposite direction, heading up north from Argentina.
Happy New Year everybody! This includes Johannes from Germany, whom I met today when he was going the opposite direction, heading up north from Argentina.
December 30, 2009
Dominical
After a couple of pretty steep hills yesterday, I was prepared for some strenuous climbs today, but then it was all flat and easy coasting to Dominical! Riding on a mostly brand-new highway past oil palm plantations (the smoke in the background is from a processing plant)
Traffic was light and I also heard rumors that it is legal to drive sober in Costa Rica, which I find very reassuring every time a vehicle passes me. Dominical is very pleasant - and has a strong presence of mostly US and also European tourists. I have seen many billboards ads for developments of all kinds, mainly condominium projects and land for sale, so I wonder what the area will look like a few years after the economy picks up worldwide.
Traffic was light and I also heard rumors that it is legal to drive sober in Costa Rica, which I find very reassuring every time a vehicle passes me. Dominical is very pleasant - and has a strong presence of mostly US and also European tourists. I have seen many billboards ads for developments of all kinds, mainly condominium projects and land for sale, so I wonder what the area will look like a few years after the economy picks up worldwide.
December 29, 2009
Jaco
Wow, this is some scenery here. Puntarenas is beautifully located between the Nicoya Peninsula and the mainland. Then further south tropical rainforests and abundant wildlife. From a bridge, I saw these cute animals,
Despite the heat I didn't see anybody taking a dip in the river. The one on the top right was about 8ft long, I would say. And arriving in Jaco was a bit like riding into an amusement park (sort of like getting to Cabo after riding down the Baja peninsula). I like the contrasts.
December 28, 2009
Puntarenas
So after my last post yesterday, I went to a small store and bought some candy, a soft drink, and a (glass) bottle of beer. After I asked for a bag, the store clerk got me a plastic cup instead - I thought after all that riding my already very rudimentary Spanish had become entirely nonsensical. "No," he said, "I understood, but you are not allowed to take the bottle with you. You have to drink it here." Then he explained the recycling laws of Costa Rica to me. (When I am back home, I will try this at a 7-11, should be fun!)
Great ride today and more on the long side - just a couple of km shy of a metric double century. I had heard from several independent sources that the roads in Costa Rica are very bad, especially for biking. While it is true that there were occasional cracks in the pavement and also some potholes, and the shoulder was rather narrow, I have seen much worse.
Puntarenas is an interesting old seaport that definitely looks like the kind of place that has seen better days. (Crime in town I had heard of is one reason why I was glad to make it before dark.)
Tomorrow I will (try to) slow down a bit and spend the night at one of the resort towns southeast from here.
Great ride today and more on the long side - just a couple of km shy of a metric double century. I had heard from several independent sources that the roads in Costa Rica are very bad, especially for biking. While it is true that there were occasional cracks in the pavement and also some potholes, and the shoulder was rather narrow, I have seen much worse.
Puntarenas is an interesting old seaport that definitely looks like the kind of place that has seen better days. (Crime in town I had heard of is one reason why I was glad to make it before dark.)
Tomorrow I will (try to) slow down a bit and spend the night at one of the resort towns southeast from here.
December 27, 2009
La Cruz
Just after my stop at the beach with the volcano view, I passed a large wind farm and then a bit later I arrived at the border.
The entertainment at the border by far exceeded previous experiences. First I had to stop at a little booth to get a piece of paper for exiting Nicaragua. Then I proceeded into an area that looked like a soccer field that hasn´t been watered for years and seemed to be mainly used as a parking area for many quasi-vehicles. There were groups of people apparently moving in random directions. I was told I need to get a stamp for exiting Nicaragua in a certain building. Inside that building, there was a line in front of a counter with a sign saying "salida." Good, I thought. But a uniformed person told me I needed to go to a different building. I went there and saw the same signs saying "salida." To make sure I am at the right place, I dared to disrupt the cigarette break of another uniformed person who then told me those were not the correct counters and I needed to go to another place...well, I thought, after all they are obviously not very keen on giving me that exit stamp. I then got on my bike and started riding towards where I thought the Costa Rica side of the border was. Without stopping, I politely greeting numerous uniformed Nicaraguan officers as I was passing them. I arrived at the Costa Rica immigration building and everybody was happy. Now I am in La Cruz and need a beer. Cheers!
The entertainment at the border by far exceeded previous experiences. First I had to stop at a little booth to get a piece of paper for exiting Nicaragua. Then I proceeded into an area that looked like a soccer field that hasn´t been watered for years and seemed to be mainly used as a parking area for many quasi-vehicles. There were groups of people apparently moving in random directions. I was told I need to get a stamp for exiting Nicaragua in a certain building. Inside that building, there was a line in front of a counter with a sign saying "salida." Good, I thought. But a uniformed person told me I needed to go to a different building. I went there and saw the same signs saying "salida." To make sure I am at the right place, I dared to disrupt the cigarette break of another uniformed person who then told me those were not the correct counters and I needed to go to another place...well, I thought, after all they are obviously not very keen on giving me that exit stamp. I then got on my bike and started riding towards where I thought the Costa Rica side of the border was. Without stopping, I politely greeting numerous uniformed Nicaraguan officers as I was passing them. I arrived at the Costa Rica immigration building and everybody was happy. Now I am in La Cruz and need a beer. Cheers!
La Virgen
I am writing this from near La Virgen, between Rivas and the Costa Rica border. Very much encouraged by David and Kris, I was originally thinking to spend a few days on Ometepe Island, which is the sister island of Bainbridge Island where David and Kris live. A few days ago I started contemplating the possibility to skip the trip to Ometepe and instead take advantage of having so far covered more miles than planned and go further than San Jose. So it looks like I will be flying back from Panama City. And I will visit Ometepe some other time and bring my hiking boots and backpack instead of my bike and spandex :-)
You will most likely hear from me again later tonight from Costa Rica!
You will most likely hear from me again later tonight from Costa Rica!
December 26, 2009
Diriamba
So much to write about. After arriving here in the afternoon, I had the choice between a hotel with (sort of) Wi-Fi and no pool and one without Wi-Fi but a gorgeous pool area with restaurant. I opted for the latter. This turned out to give me a chance to finally catch a ride in those ubiquitious mototaxis to get to the internet place I am writing this from. Riding in that mototaxi, bicycling suddenly felt incredibly safe. By the way, the mototaxis are, unlike what one would suspect, typically propelled with four-stroke engines.
Yesterday I had an extremely pleasant and relaxing day in Leon. I spent a couple of hours strolling through Leon, then went back to the Hotel to take a dip in the pool, then again to the main plaza by the cathedral (the largest in Central America).
Back to the hotel for a nap and then to the plaza for some coffee and people watching. On Christmas Eve, I was not surprised to see the city center packed with people, but yesterday, there was also a lot of life in the streets, which came as a surprise. Even many stores were open and numerous stands were selling all kind of things from pirated DVDs to sofas.
So that you can see what I was resting on, I took the following picture:
I was quite impressed by the meat selection and was very tempted to sample some of the beer - even though in Germany Oettinger is not exactly considered one of the best, more like Busch in the US - along with some Leberkaese or Weisswurst. However I remembered I was about to start a lengthy climb and I was afraid after that kind of lunch I would probably roll backwards right into Lake Managua. Fresh fruit was a much wiser choice.
Tomorrow I may be able to make it to Costa Rica!
Yesterday I had an extremely pleasant and relaxing day in Leon. I spent a couple of hours strolling through Leon, then went back to the Hotel to take a dip in the pool, then again to the main plaza by the cathedral (the largest in Central America).
Back to the hotel for a nap and then to the plaza for some coffee and people watching. On Christmas Eve, I was not surprised to see the city center packed with people, but yesterday, there was also a lot of life in the streets, which came as a surprise. Even many stores were open and numerous stands were selling all kind of things from pirated DVDs to sofas.
The surprises continued today. After about 50 miles of riding, I managed to bypass Managua without getting into too much traffic and then started heading south from Managua pedalling uphill on a road that was clearly going through a better part of town, with residences of diplomats - and lots of barbed wire and security cameras. There was also an office of the Konrad Adenauer Stiftung (a German foundation associated with the Christian Democratic Party) and a German school. Maybe this explains the Bavarian Delikatessen store I saw and tried to use for a photo shoot. Unfortunately, the photographer (Frau Metzgerin) was having problems operating my camera, so it's a bit fuzzy, but you'll get the idea:
So that you can see what I was resting on, I took the following picture:
I was quite impressed by the meat selection and was very tempted to sample some of the beer - even though in Germany Oettinger is not exactly considered one of the best, more like Busch in the US - along with some Leberkaese or Weisswurst. However I remembered I was about to start a lengthy climb and I was afraid after that kind of lunch I would probably roll backwards right into Lake Managua. Fresh fruit was a much wiser choice.
Tomorrow I may be able to make it to Costa Rica!
December 24, 2009
Leon
Feliz Navidad / Merry Christmas / Frohe Weihnachten / Vesele Vianoce
I wasn't quite planning on it, but the route was rather flat and I made it as far as Leon today. Between Choluteca and the border I saw these kids selling lizards - the animals were alive but didn't look very happy:
At the border, the usual disorder - when I was exiting Honduras, a soldier took my passport and slipped a piece of paper that I had received from the immigration officer into his pocket. Then he was brave enough to tell me that I will have to pay $7 because I am missing that very piece of paper. I told him he should check his pocket...I found this very entertaining.
Ever wondered why SUVs are called SUVs? (If this question doesn't make sense, you may want to google "Lada Niva" which is the quintessential Soviet Union V)
I will be in Leon for two nights and then head south. Since a trip to Oaxaca in the mid nineties, I have always found Christmas in Latin America very enjoyable in a way that's quite different from Western Europe or the US, as people are out on the streets with food stands and performances, etc....food...this reminds me that I am hungry (and thirsty)...Merry Christmas!
December 23, 2009
December 22, 2009
San Miguel
A hundred miles from La Liberdad to San Miguel with many things to see and lots of conversations. (Yesterday, when I met Jeff, the Canadian, we agreed that it's at times almost difficult to avoid leaving an impolite impression when one wants to get back on the bike after a refueling stop. As I wrote, people are very friendly and outgoing.)
I love this green tunnel technology:
One of many international development and aid projects:
The dollar sign reflects the fact that El Salvador uses the US dollar as the official currency.
Here you can see the remainders of a bridge that was washed away by the disastrous floods in November - one can imagine the brutal force of the river after torrential rains:
The plan for tomorrow is to ride about 60 km to the Honduras border and then stay there overnight before continuing to Nicaragua (where it's gonna be Christmas time!)
I love this green tunnel technology:
One of many international development and aid projects:
The dollar sign reflects the fact that El Salvador uses the US dollar as the official currency.
Here you can see the remainders of a bridge that was washed away by the disastrous floods in November - one can imagine the brutal force of the river after torrential rains:
The plan for tomorrow is to ride about 60 km to the Honduras border and then stay there overnight before continuing to Nicaragua (where it's gonna be Christmas time!)
December 21, 2009
La Libertad
Greetings from El Salvador! I am writing this from La Libertad, a fishing village / surfer dude paradise south of San Salvador.
Last night, I decided to take a "taxi" for the last 7 km of rough dirt road to the remote resort (remote as in no internet, no cable) I stayed at in Barra de Santiago, just east of the Guatemala border. The 7 km turned out to be about as strenuous as the previous 170 km, but in a very different way - standing on the flatbed of a truck, surrounded by vegetables, chickens, and other passengers.
Then, today, a lap in the pool before taking off,
and getting some oil and air at one of the many bike shops along the road,
and enjoying the natural beauty:
Riding past sugarcane plantations,
Right after I had taken this picture, this one ran to safety on the other side of the highway.
I am truly amazed by the reactions of people along the road. Even more than in the coastal region of Guatemala, there are many homes scattered between villages and towns where the terrain allows - the Costa del Balsamo is an exception since there are many steep cliffs and hills, a bit like a tropical version of Big Sur or parts of the Oregon Coast. I see many people walking, biking (hence the bike shops), or catching rides on trucks. Virtually every one of the many kids along the road waves and says hello or hi or, sometimes, bye bye. I am optimistic and attribute the latter to unintentional wrong use of the English language.
You can enjoy a magnificent view while washing your hands (and also while dining) at the restaurant at km 59 of the Carretera Littoral (and Mauricio, who worked there, was great to talk to):
Just before La Libertad I met Jeff from Canada who was heading north back to Canada after riding all the way to Patagonia. Very impressive! Wish you lots of tailwind, Jeff!
Last night, I decided to take a "taxi" for the last 7 km of rough dirt road to the remote resort (remote as in no internet, no cable) I stayed at in Barra de Santiago, just east of the Guatemala border. The 7 km turned out to be about as strenuous as the previous 170 km, but in a very different way - standing on the flatbed of a truck, surrounded by vegetables, chickens, and other passengers.
Then, today, a lap in the pool before taking off,
and getting some oil and air at one of the many bike shops along the road,
and enjoying the natural beauty:
Riding past sugarcane plantations,
while keeping tortoises alive:
Right after I had taken this picture, this one ran to safety on the other side of the highway.
I am truly amazed by the reactions of people along the road. Even more than in the coastal region of Guatemala, there are many homes scattered between villages and towns where the terrain allows - the Costa del Balsamo is an exception since there are many steep cliffs and hills, a bit like a tropical version of Big Sur or parts of the Oregon Coast. I see many people walking, biking (hence the bike shops), or catching rides on trucks. Virtually every one of the many kids along the road waves and says hello or hi or, sometimes, bye bye. I am optimistic and attribute the latter to unintentional wrong use of the English language.
You can enjoy a magnificent view while washing your hands (and also while dining) at the restaurant at km 59 of the Carretera Littoral (and Mauricio, who worked there, was great to talk to):
Just before La Libertad I met Jeff from Canada who was heading north back to Canada after riding all the way to Patagonia. Very impressive! Wish you lots of tailwind, Jeff!
December 19, 2009
Santa Lucia Cotzumalguapa
Theme of today's ride: tons of sugarcane and loaded sugarcane trucks and empty sugarcane trucks and stalled sugarcane trucks and sugar processing plants. Sweet!
Tomorrow I may already cross the border to El Salvador. I am just trying to see if I can make a reservation for a hotel in a beach town near the border. (So that I can be a lazy boy and spend a few hours on the beach sipping interesting beverages.) More tomorrow.
Also, here is a little clip from yesterday in Retalhuleu:
December 18, 2009
Retalhuleu
Between Tapachula and the Guatemala border I witnessed this example of optimistic physics:
It turned out that there was a separate border crossing for pedestrians and bicycles, and bicycle taxis, which was quite wild.
In Guatemala, there was first some navigating through Tecun Uman, the border town on the Guatemala side, and then 50 miles or so to Retalhuleu. I am amazed to see how populated the area is. While there are no major cities in this area, life is very energetic and one is constantly surrounded by people, literally, even on the road.
It turned out that there was a separate border crossing for pedestrians and bicycles, and bicycle taxis, which was quite wild.
In Guatemala, there was first some navigating through Tecun Uman, the border town on the Guatemala side, and then 50 miles or so to Retalhuleu. I am amazed to see how populated the area is. While there are no major cities in this area, life is very energetic and one is constantly surrounded by people, literally, even on the road.
December 17, 2009
Tapachula
About half-way between Huixtla and Tapachula, I was joined by a local cyclist
riding a brand-new high-end bike. Unusual around here, I thought. I almost ran out of steam while we were chatting and I got the impression that he must be in a very respectable shape. When I asked him what he does for a living he pointed to his bike and it all made sense. It turns out that there is quite a bit of interest for professional cycling in Chiapas, including the Vuelta Chiapas, an international bike race.
It was nice to arrive in Tapachula already around noon to have some
time to relax and get information about hotels and roads in Guatemala.
Here is a (very) short (and dramatically incomplete) German
language course video ("Vehicles on Mexican streets"). Two types of vehicles
are featured and there are cameo appearances of several others:
riding a brand-new high-end bike. Unusual around here, I thought. I almost ran out of steam while we were chatting and I got the impression that he must be in a very respectable shape. When I asked him what he does for a living he pointed to his bike and it all made sense. It turns out that there is quite a bit of interest for professional cycling in Chiapas, including the Vuelta Chiapas, an international bike race.
It was nice to arrive in Tapachula already around noon to have some
time to relax and get information about hotels and roads in Guatemala.
Here is a (very) short (and dramatically incomplete) German
language course video ("Vehicles on Mexican streets"). Two types of vehicles
are featured and there are cameo appearances of several others:
December 16, 2009
Mapastepec
It has been another wonderful day with numerous refueling stops at interesting places and sightings of interesting wildlife.
I had an early start to get some miles in before the hottest hours of the day. After 20ish miles, I found this cute little breakfast place:
Riding along the Chiapas coast was a pleasure. The landscape between the sea and the mountains is mostly flat and the vegetation lush and green with huge trees often providing shade:
I saw very impressive lizards. Right in front of me, one of them jumped out of the bushes and ran across the road; from what I found on this site, it was a ctenosaurus similis. The guy seemed to be in a hurry, so I didn't have a chance to ask if he has applied for a job in Jurassic Park IV.
I had an early start to get some miles in before the hottest hours of the day. After 20ish miles, I found this cute little breakfast place:
Riding along the Chiapas coast was a pleasure. The landscape between the sea and the mountains is mostly flat and the vegetation lush and green with huge trees often providing shade:
I saw very impressive lizards. Right in front of me, one of them jumped out of the bushes and ran across the road; from what I found on this site, it was a ctenosaurus similis. The guy seemed to be in a hurry, so I didn't have a chance to ask if he has applied for a job in Jurassic Park IV.
December 15, 2009
Arriaga
Today started off with formidable headwind during the first 12 miles or so heading north from Juchitan. Locals were telling me that it's almost always very windy there. Not surprisingly, there's a huge wind farm in the area near La Ventosa. Later, as I started heading east and then south, the wind turned into crosswind and then tailwind. Felt like flying. Yeah!
On my way, I also saw some pretty fancy trucks for drive thru X-rays of passing vehicles used by the federal police (not the military) at various checkpoints.
I was very curious to see what the images look like etc. and started chatting with a guy who just got off his shift and was stowing all his guns on the back seat of his car. But I didn't want to ask him too many questions.
On my way, I also saw some pretty fancy trucks for drive thru X-rays of passing vehicles used by the federal police (not the military) at various checkpoints.
I was very curious to see what the images look like etc. and started chatting with a guy who just got off his shift and was stowing all his guns on the back seat of his car. But I didn't want to ask him too many questions.
December 14, 2009
December 13, 2009
Salina Cruz
So I decided to start riding on Sunday already. After just under 100 miles of rolling hills, I am in Salina Cruz, a seaport with a very industrial charm and hardly any tourism infrastructure. Temperatures were almost exactly the same as in Seattle when I left, except someone must have changed the units. (Drip drip drip.)
December 12, 2009
Huatulco
December 6, 2009
December 2009 - the adventure continues
This winter's exercises in translational motion at low latitudes will take off in Huatulco, Oaxaca, and will be leading south along the Pacific Coast to Costa Rica. Stay tuned; Internet access permitting, I will be posting all "important" information about flat tires etc. starting December 14th!
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